more pictures

This is the view from Emory Pass : 8295 ft or something like that. What you can't see is the wind and the 30 degree temperatures. I did not stay long to enjoy this.
Welcome to Chili Land. Imagine them out drying on rooftops and taking up whole parking lots. And the smell!
This is the open pit copper mine at Santa Rita, on the way up to Emory Pass. I think they extract ore with something like 6 % copper, and then refine, refine, refine.
And this is the first dirt road I was on between Duncan, AZ and Silver City, NM, when I just thought everything was so pretty! Little did I know...

Cheating the odyssey

It's true -- I took a greyhound bus last night from El Paso to Fort Stockton, Texas. Cut out 250 miles of this state. Feel good about it. Also, feel a bit burnt out on riding. And making cuts inspires me to make more cuts. Like all day, riding on a really boring road with major headwinds, I thought two things. 1.) I wish my ipod had batteries. and 2.) I don't want to be doing this.

So I barely rode at all . 35 miles. Now I'm in Sanderson, TX.

Austin bound, one way or another.

The lone yew meets the lone star

Not even 1000 miles to the home land! Seems almost close.

How cara got her groove back

Quiz question : which of these most saved me from the self-pitying rabbit hole of touring cyclist's blues?

A.) Climbing to 8295 ft Emory Pass at sunset
B.) Riding more than 50 miles before noon
C.) Topping 40 mph on a downhill
D.) Riding 97 miles in one day
E.) New Mexican red chili mania

Guess first, answers later.

It's been cold, so cold.  Last night, coming down the pass was scary because my ever freezing fingers went numb when I still needed them to hit the brakes.  I only had five miles till my sleep spot, but it was a memorably terrifying 5 miles.  I stopped to shake em out, I wore all 3 pairs of gloves I have. . . No help.  I was supposed to camp outside the black range lodge, but when I got in, it was warm and there was dinner, and the innkeeper asked knowingly, 'so, do u still want to camp?' I am a sucker. Then emily, who's living there and building things out of straw bale, and I, we sat in a wood fired hot tub under the stars. And when we got too hot, we went into her straw bale sleeping hut and made a fire, drank beers, and talked.  And it felt just like home. 
Today, all I did was ride. And look at red chilis drying. And have lunch with a bearded, overalled man named wild bill, in hatch, the chili capital of the WORLD. 3 miles short of a century ; I considered closing the circle with some loops around the starbucks parking lot. But I drank a frappacino instead.
Oh, and guess what?! Texas tomorrow!

Rolling resistance matters, or it's not a shortcut when it takes 3 times as long

Today was my worst riding day so far. By far. Okay, so I know better, I really do know better than to use google maps for bikers. But the devil drew me in, promising 10 fewer miles for the day. Before taking off, I called ellen in silver city to check in about the roads. She verified what google seemed to be saying ; there were short cuts on county roads. Earlier directions for different roads had specified 'portions unpaved,' leading me to believe that all portions of the road I was going to use were paved.  Does that make sense to anyone else?
I guess I've gotten used to northwest dirt roads, all hard pack and eroded to rock. I was in no way prepared for the sand box called red rock road that runs west from silver city through gila wilderness. And to boot, it rained last night. So it wasn't like moving through wet sand. Because it turns out you don't move through wet sand.
My shoes were so full of desert concrete that they quit clipping in, and when I cleaned them out,  it seemed like seconds later, i'd have to get off the bike and walk, in turn refilling my cleats with sand.
This 20 miles of plodding happened after 10 miles of riding back and forth on nm 454, trying to figure out what google meant by 'turn left' after they told me to turn right on nm 454. Because there were no left turns on nm 454. Not in either direction.
But back to the wet sand, caught in the space between my tires and fenders. Sending me ricocheting off the bike and into truck tracks. Bringing me to frustrated, curse the heavens, melting point (over and over and over again).
There was no cell service, no cars, no escape. On the sand for 15 miles, or about 3 hours.
Then I rode blocked a truck and hitched the rest of the way to silver city. That was my day.
I called forth so many people I love and miss and had them ride (well, walk) phantom bikes beside me. You help, friends. And it made me cry for all the people who have to walk through the desert to survive. Mine was the most minute glimpse into this hardship, and it was damn humbling.

November 25 56 miles : duncan, az to silver city, new mexico

Giving thanks

Every day on the bike is different. Today was long, slow, frustrating and boring, then it was swift, stunning, and exhilirating. Mostly, that change has to do with incline. Today featured the addition of headwinds.
Short list of things I'm thankful for: staying safe on the road for the last 2000 (!) miles. Drinkable tap water. Hot showers. Coffee refills. Sunshine. The surprisingly beautiful southwest. Wildlife. Schwalbe marathon tires. The kindness of strangers. The support and love of family and friends. My st. Christopher medal. Mexican food. Thank you, thank you for helping me on my way. It makes all the difference in the world.
Apache res to duncan, az 83 or 84 miles

I promise I'll be more thankful tomorrow

November 23. Superior, az - apache rez. I don't know, like 57 miles.
I woke up and heard the wind banging trees around outside. The weather channel said the wind was coming from the south east at 19 mph (or is wind in knots?)  Guess what direction I was headed?
I realized a little while later, when I had to quit climbing and go back down to superior, that sometimes courage means knowing when not to be hardcore. It was really windy.
I ended up getting a ride over the pass from mo, a real sweet guy, who is a pro poker player, and loaded my bike into a really new bmw. Then I rode 56 or 57 bullshit miles into headwinds on shitty roads with no shoulders, or shoulders that were all rumble strip. And the lady at the globe visitor center assured me i'd make it to fort thomas, which I didn't, so I got caught riding in the dark.
Good news is there's lots of stars and I can eat all the ginger cookies I want. Oh, and the wind died!

november 22

still in superior. house was too good to vacate. town is wild west. and small enough that everyone i talk to asks if i'm biking through town. makes me feel funny, one of those quirky weirdos, which we all know is nothing like me.

really leaving tomorrow.

Here's the website for ogling superior photos:

http://superior-arizona.com/

i think i'll be spending thanksgiving with a farm goat in duncan, az. yay! (call me if you're bored )

November 21

Picture this : me. Bathrobe. Anthony bourdain on hd. Grilled cheese and apples. Box chardonnay. Fire.
Hotel? B & b? Home for the holidays? No, warm showers, hospitality for tourng cyclists. My hosts gave me my own house. They live across town. This is just for me, and I can stay tomorrow if I want. So what did I do? I cried, that's what I did. I asked them why. Why be so kind?!? And then I took a bath.
85 miles. Phoenix to superior, az. Big climbs a comin'. If you know anyone in silver city, nm, lemme know. I need a family for thanksgiving.
Oh, 1900 miles in I got a bike fitting. Made me a solid mile per hour faster. Oops!

the perfect lunch... No subsitutions

For true perfection, diner is dead tired, and should have eaten 2 hours prior.
Note: The perfect lunch MUST be eaten in this order:

one coconut popsicle


ONE machaca taco (or two) .

one 32 oz jamaica (i'd be weary if your jamaica is this color)

The week in a few pictures

Oh, Quartzsite. Pioneer town gone to the snow birds. Get your gas here!

Saguaro. Upright. Old. Arizona.

Okay, so this was last week. !!!!

And yours truly. Desert Mouse-manik

november 19, 20 : hooked on phoenix !

I rode from Wickenburg to Phoenix Friday. It was 67 miles, but I didn't get going until 11:15 or so, and it felt like a long day. Suburbia kind of goes on and on and on, ya know? In the morning, I had breakfast with Kamal, who runs a motel in Wickenburg. He is pictured here, saluting the First Officer of Mumbai, like a good young lad. He told me if I ever stay in an Indian-run motel again, to have the owner call him, and he'll get a good price. A true gem. When I got to Phoenix, I took care of some bike shop-ing, then I went to meet Richard, Andy's grad school bestie, and Renae, Richard's sweetie. They live in Phoenix, and their condo overlooks a heated pool. They are both teachers, amazing hosts, and... engaged! they are also pictured below, showing AZ t-bird pride for corner Taco Shops. How cute are they?! I was gonna leave today, but then it felt like I'd have to rush the swimming, newspaper reading, and general layabouting that was a 70 degree Sunday in Phoenix. So I stayed! We can always work tomorrow.
Did you know Phoenix has a big mountain right in the center of town? Did you know the square mileage of Phoenix (or "the valley," I'm not sure which) is larger than that of Rhode Island? Did you know you can win $800 if you place first in Fantasy Football? I, for one, did not.

november 18 2011

Nov 18. Brenda, az to wickenburg. 81.1 miles. Today I rode on hwy 60. I met a cyclist who's been living on his bike for 7 years. The sunset was beautiful, and a coyote crossed my path.

november 17 palo verde, ca to brenda, AZ!

72.4 miles today. Only 2 things I want to talk about. 1.) I think riding on i-10 showed me what i'd be like in one of those 10 day silent meditation retreats. I'd fight and resist for the first 8 days, and then finally realize I was still at the meditation, no getting away until it's over, and then i'd spend the next two days making up stories about all the other people there, and I would be so happy. Even though it was flat, the cross currents of truck after truck made it impossible to pick up speed. I counted all 22 of those miles.
2.) I realized today that I haven't paid to sleep anywhere, not even a campground, since october! I had heard about this sort of hospitality, but there is honestly no way to be ready for it. I don't know how to give thanks! This morning, I ordered one egg and toast at a diner, and when my food came, there were 2 eggs, which I thought was sweet,until I found out there were two more hiding underneath! 4 eggs! Maybe they just needed to unload some eggs? Tonight, I intentionally tried to pay for lodging, and was still put up (albeit in a strange tin diner) for the night. America, where does this kindness come from? Most people totally disapprove of what I'm doing, but it's as if they can't help themselves. I hope I don't sound like I'm complaining. Just overwhelmed.

nov 15 and 16

>Nov 15 87.6 miles. Rode from pine valley (very freezing) to brawley, ca (very agricultural). I descended into the desert at 6% grade for 7 miles. The last 50 miles were easy, and I think I discovered the perfect lunch.
Nov 16. Today was hard. I didn't sleep much, and the hills were rollery for 30 miles. Kinda fun, kinda exhausting. I finished at nancy dean mercury's place on the colorado river and learned about yoga and spirituality, ag towns, and california burros. Arizona manana!

Nov 14 2011 san diego to pine valley

>4035 ft climb today was. . . actually not that bad. It did go on and on and on, and there were a couple times I felt like barf, but overall, way better than the little bumps that weren't even listed as elevation gains in northern california. Some stats : 67.9 miles, 30 of climbing, 6 miles off route (lost), ending point just past pine valley, ca

Photos from the great state

I've been sitting on these photos for a few weeks now. This is Larry, a 49ers fan. in Crescent City.

Larry, Lorna, and Rebecca. Future Family. Crescent City.
My leg. San Francisco
Romantic Bike. Tomales.
Arrows are your friends. Someone sprayed yellow arrows on the route from the border to San Francisco. That someone is wonderful.
Bike. Art. Fence. Outside San Diego.
Bear Bagging. Big Sur.
Landscape Design. Valley Ford.
Brussel Sea. Between Santa Cruz and Monterey.
Peter Pan. Big Sur.
Road Warrior. San Simeon.
Harvest. Central Coast.
Dog Walk. Venice Beach.
Parking Garage Bike Path. Redondo Beach.
Tom's. Orange County.
Riding through Camp Pendleton. San Diego County.
Bruce, with the Airstream. Encinitas.
San Diego.

Watch This : Exciting Road footage!

Big ups to Nicole Album for teaching me imovie

Everyone's Got their own Ride

This is Rodrigo -- he started in Argentina, rode up to Mexico, then flew to Alaska, and has been riding back down to Mexico to finish the continent. We met him in Southern Oregon, at a state park. He was averaging 90 miles a day on the coast. Note the mid-shoe change willingness to pose for a picture.
Bryan, Rachel, and Rebecca, on the Avenue of the Giants.
Rebecca and her bike!
Rachel and Bryan, and their bikes. They'd been on the rode since April when we met them. Just married -- great way to test out the relationship. And they rocked it!
This is Paul from Anchorage. He liked detours.
And this rider, you may recognize on the Golden Gate bridge. Please try and close in on my face -- crazy eyes!

november 9

san diego today. pacific coast riding is done done done!

i rode 38 little miles, and took many breaks. i didn't pay for any of my meals. people were sooo nice to me, and i had companion riders on every hill. each time i found myself riding alone again, i giggled.

did that really just happen? 1400 miles!!!

i am hanging with jess and aaron and cash in san diego, and tomorrow i get the great privilege of dog sitting!

weekend plans and storms means i'll be back in action monday to start rolling eastward.

Dearest Big Easy, I'm on my way!
Love, Cara

November 8

56 miles to encinata today. Sometimes when I'm on the road, and big things are going down at home (read : seattle), I spend most of my time on the bike thinking about those things, even though I'm moving in the opposite direction. Today was one of those days. bike accidents suck, and so do broken collarbones. I'm familiar with both, although thankfully, not from this trip.
Some thoughts I did have about being here while I'm here: today I rode through pendleton marine base, stopped for pbj lunch, and got to see parades of tanks roll by, including one with a sign hanging off, warning "student driver."
Ways SoCal is not preparing me for the right angle turn include flat riding, almost non-stop bike trails, natural food stores, and the ocean. I am feeling sentimental about departing frm this coastline.
Surfers out in packs today. Party on the pacific. I am camping almost on the beach tonight, which is about as close as I've come. Tomorrow, to san diego, Thursday, I'll flash my passport.
Swift healing, andy.

Look! I'm in orange county, y'all!

	Just to prove I can keep up with the demands of a blog. . . 2 posts in one day! And pictures! I rode 75 miles today, from venice beach to laguna beach. 68 of the miles were on route and necessary to my progress. I thought I was ready for it to get dark early, but when it came, I was still on the road, sprinting at 20 mph to finish. Must. Start. Earlier. I've been taken in by walter, an old coworker of my cousin jeff's. He has 3 kids - 2 of them were home tonight and we had family dinner. We sat at the table so long that even me and the 9 year old boy got full. I have experienced such incredible hospitality on this trip - I have to do another round of shout-outs. To walter, jeff, and bill horgos for opening their homes to my crap everywhere, always hungry, stink self. Also, a shout out to karl, because he taught me everything I know about orange county. And to the night rider's union, for singing to me. Thank you thank you thank you. And now for the photos